CHOOSING THE FABRIC FOR YOUR WEDDING DRESS
  by Amanda Aitchinson
   
  “Antique chic” and “vintage” are the current key words in the newest wedding
  dress fashion trends. The inspiration for this is the 1920s “Gatsby” era. Layers
  of different kinds of fabric are used, for example, silk over lace or chiffon, to
  make you feel like a real princess. Veils are still in vogue and also help to
  create that old-worldly feel and look.
   
  Wedding dress fabrics
  The style, design and texture you want and the season when you plan to get
  married are all important factors that you should take into account when you
  choose your wedding dress. The same design can look very different if it is
  made with a different fabric, because every type of fabric creates its own
  special effects. Some fabrics flow softly against your body, while others stand
  out more firmly. Some are admired for their crispness and others for their
  lightness and translucence. Silk, a natural fibre that is famed for its quality
  and refined associations, is undoubtedly the most sought-after and most
  highly valued wedding dress fabric. It is well-known for its soft sheen and
  organic look.
   
  Silk fibre threads are woven to produce a variety of fabrics. Satin is a densely
  woven silk which is famed for its glossy sheen. “Duchesse” satin, a blend of
  silk and rayon, is lighter and more affordable than pure silk satin. Charmeuse
  is a light silk satin with a more subtle sheen, while shantung is a textured low-
  sheen silk with a coarser, more grainy look. Then there are “Gauzier”, a silk-
  like chiffon, tulle and organza, all of which can be used in multiple layers for
  the skirt of your wedding dress to create a gauzy, soft look.
   
  The shade
  Snow white: this is the whitest white and looks stunning against a dark skin.
  Silk, diamond or natural white: These shades are slightly less white than
  snow white, but look much like snow white on photographs. About 80% of all
  brides look lovely in a soft, diamond white gown. If in doubt, opt for diamond
  white. Brides with a fairer skin prefer this white, because a snow white
  wedding dress can make their skin look bleached out.
  Ivory (eggshell or candlelight): Some ivory-hued gowns have yellow
  undertones that look more creamy, while others look ivory white.
  Champagne: White with a pink undertone that looks almost white.
   
  The key to the shade you pick for your gown lies in your skin
  undertone:
  A light complexion: You will look best in yellow ivory and warmer, more
  natural colours. Stay away from snow white – you might just end up looking
  as pale as death!
  A medium complexion with a pink undertone: Opt for creamy hues.
  A medium complexion with a sallow undertone: Try diamond white
  or champagne.
  A dark skin: Lucky you – most shades of white will complement you. If your
  skin has sallow or olive undertones, steer clear of yellowy ivory shades; rather
  try snow white or pink champagne.
   
   
   
   
   
   
 
   
   
   
   
  Popular fabrics to consider:
  Batis: Soft, light and transparent.
  Brocade: A jacquard-woven fabric with slightly raised patterns. Very popular
  in winter.
  Charmeuse: A light, slightly shiny, soft fabric that feels like satin.
  Chiffon: Delicate, thin and transparent – made of silk or rayon. Soft, and
  usually used in layers. Popular over satin skirts and in sleeves, and for
  draping.
  Crêpe: A light, soft, thin fabric with a slightly textured look.
  Damask: Similar to brocade, but somewhat thinner.
  Duchesse satin: A light fabric made of a silk and rayon or polyester blend,
  woven with a satin finish.
  Dupion: Similar to shantung, but a little thicker, made with slightly coarser
  fibres and with less sheen.
  Faille: A structured, stripy finish, like cross-grain ribbon. The fabric has
  substance and is fairly densely woven.
  Gabardine: A densely woven, firm fabric with a quality finish and some
  diagonal lines on the outside.
  Georgette: A fine, light-weight fabric, usually made of polyester or silk,
  with a crêpe finish.
  Illusion: A delicate, fine net fabric; usually used in sleeves and around the
  neckline.
  Jersey: A highly elastic knit fabric; the right side has lines running the
  length of the fabric, and the reverse has lines running across it.
  Moire: A heavy taffeta with subtle water marks.
  Organdy: A crisp, transparent fabric.
  Organza: Crisply stiff and transparent like chiffon, but with a firmer texture
  similar to that of tulle, but more flowing; popular for skirts, sleeves, backs and
  as table overlays.
  Peau de Soie: A soft satiny right side; a good quality fabric with a matte
  finish, fine lines and a grainy look.
  Satin: A heavy, smooth fabric with a high gloss finish; very popular for
  wedding dresses.
  Silk gazar: A four-layer silk organza.
  Silk mikado: A silk blend, usually heavier than 100% silk.
  Silk-faced satin: A smooth silk satin with a high gloss right side and matte
  reverse side.
  Shantung: Similar to raw silk, characterised by its coarse texture.
  Taffeta: Crackly and smooth, with a slight grain; not often used.
  Tulle: Netting made of silk, nylon or rayon; usually used for skirts and veils
  (think of ballerina tutus)
  Velvet: A soft, thick fabric with a fine pile on the right side and a smooth
  matte reverse side.
   
  Fashion designers see it as a privilege to participate in the planning and
  design of a wedding dress. Professional designers have been thoroughly
  trained to notice the prospective bride’s loveliest features and to emphasise
  her good points in the choice of the style, shade and fabric and its
  combinations, to make her dream vision come true.